E-news Editorials News News in 2008 Special Areas Summits

The all-new brand Aïny is planning its commercial launch at Zoom Cosmeeting 2008. Yet as new as it is, Aïny already has a beautiful story, that of the meeting be-tween a man, Daniel Joutard, with the native peoples of Peru and Ecuador.

Fresh out of ESSEC, Daniel Joutard discovered at the age of 23 Ecuador’s Indian communities while on an NGO mission. Won over by their knowledge and their wealth of information in terms of biodiversity, he associated them ten years later with “his vision” of cosmetics, firmly decided to re-enchant the world by creating a beauty brand – Aïny – that places value on the diversity of cultures, plants and science.

“Believe in the magic, sacred powers of plants. Believe that the wellbeing of some cannot be brought about to the detriment of the greatest number of people. Believe that the pleasure of a perfume or a texture can change the course of a day.” For the first time, a brand brings the sacred, shamanic sciences of native peoples together with modern cosmetology innovations to invite us to take a new look at cosmetics. Like these people, the brand believes in the magic virtues of plants: Ungurahua, whose oil has an extremely high concentration of Omega 9s, is developed by Ecua-dor’s Achuar communities; Sacha Inchi oil, rich in Omega 3s and 6s, is developed by the Ashaninkas and Yaneshas of Peru; Achiote seeds are full of carotenoid, a powerful antioxidant; and finally, the floral oil of Shinus molle or Andes pepper tree, was long ago used to embalm the bodies of the Incas and has been developed by the Quechua Indians of the Sacred Valley of the Incas in Peru.

The wonderful story of Aïny and Daniel Joutard is that the company has been able to place itself alongside these communities to valorize this knowledge and defend these citizens’ rights against oil and lumber companies.

Aïny’s story has a great beginning, as the company is already flourishing and happy, with a series of enchanting chapters to tell through its products: Âme Resplendissante, harmonizing hydrating fluid with sacred plants; Immortelle Beauté, regenerating cream with sacred plants; Luxe Miraculeux, radiance nutrition serum with sacred plants; Perles de la plus belle eau, makeup remover jelly with sacred plants; Un éclair…puis la nuit, makeup remover lotion with sacred plants.

To be discovered at Cosmeeting 2008.

www.ainy.fr

Photo credits: Daniel Silva / PMB

From his professional experience in an oil company, what Teruyuki Nanbu retained were the ill effects caused by petroleum on his skin and health. So it seemed inconceivable to him to treat his skin using products made with petroleum-based preservatives. From this concept came Aska, a line of Japanese cosmetic products entirely conceived using natural ingredients. Ten years or so later, Aska counts 3.5 million customers, principally in Japan, where the brand has established itself as a reference in natural cosmetics.

Aska is available in four ranges: Futur, a series of natural skincare products with five micro ingredients; Skin Mission EX, naturally formulated to fight cellular aging and preserve the skin’s elasticity; Grand Aska, a line of special products with ingredients very carefully selected from around the world; and A-Zein, the up-market range entirely formulated with natural active ingredients, without adding water.

Some of these references have just won the 2008 Monde Selection award. Skin Mission EX-C Peeling Wash, received the 2007 and 2008 Gold Medal. It uses Camu Camu, a fruit reputed to have the highest level of vitamin C in the world, and Arbuti, from Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi. This scrub combines peeling and anti-age effects.

For white skin full of vitality, the Placenta Drink, won the Gold Medal 2008. A pure food/skincare product, Placenta Drink has concentrated active ingredients that act directly on the metabolism, thus on health and beauty. Acerolla powder and royal jelly add to this cocktail of vitality.

Collagen Drink, won the 2008 Silver Medal. From the Grand Aska line, it is also a drink, this time with marine collagen enriched with 100% pure royal jelly and containing no additives. Collagen Drink acts on the elasticity and youthfulness of the skin.

These new products, like all of the Aska lines, are to be (re)discovered at the Natural & Bio Cosmeeting space.

No empty words for Margherita Ghel. A mind-body therapist, she distinguishes gesture as essential to each of our acts. Natural gestures moreover, because they are instinctive to our search for wellbeing. Hers is called Bellis Fabula. Bellis Fabula is a line of Ecocert-certified organic skincare, so named because it draws its properties from daisies (bellis in Latin), favorable to microcirculation and rich in powerfully active natural ingredients that act on cellular tissue renewal and skin re-firming. It was in talking with her mature-age patients that Margherita Ghel decided to create her range of natural products. Upset by the first signs of aging while at the pinnacle of their working lives, these woman aged 40 to 50 have become aware that today’s gestures/actions serve tomorrow’s beauty. In this age group herself, Margherita Ghel has relied on her 15 years of experience in com-munications in the luxury world – Chloé, Missoni, Poiray – and has come up with a range of entirely natural, organic skincare that women can use into the future.

With a hydrating mask, invigorating water, essential cream, eye contour cream, tensing serum and a body oil, Bellis Fabula is a line of ten products, each with its own specific application.

In keeping with her values, Margherita Ghel based the research for her entire Bellis Fabula range on the importance of the application. She stresses the importance of each gesture, which is specifically suited to each product.

line by Margherita Ghel is presented by Kumbi Cosmetics at the Natural & Bio Cosmeeting space.

www.margheritaghel.com

A true gateway to success for emerging brands, the Beauty Challenger Awards represents a unique competition in the world and highly awaited by beauty professionals. From among the 50 “zoomers” – young brands in the Zoom space – a jury of 45 beauty experts from all over the world will determine, during the month of June, the four prizewinners for the creativity and coherence of their marketing mix.

Organized by Beyond Beauty Paris, the Beauty Challenger Awards are a unique and attractive occasion for professionals to discover, in advance, the most wonderful emerging brands from the entire world. The jury members, the highest level representatives from department stores (such as Galeries Lafayettes, Bon Marché.), spas (Trianon Palace), websites (aufeminin.com), concept stores (Evody), selective perfumery chains (Sephora) as well as the trade and consumer press will discover in exclusivity the market’s new products, which they must rank.

They will award a first prize and a jury favorite in selective perfumery, a first prize in spa products, and a first prize in pharmacy products.

Then, we must wait patiently until 6 October for the announcement of the winners on the occasion of a special Beauty Challenger Awards evening.

If there is a brand that instantly and internationally evokes nature’s relation to health, wellness and beauty, it is definitely Weleda. Since 1921, the German company has built its success on the basic principal of the relationship between human beings and nature. This year, Weleda laboratories, which already took part in the Natural Beauty Summits, will meet Cosmeeting visitors to present their values at the Natural & Bio space as well as the vast range of their products reflecting exemplary dynamism.

Be in harmony with human beings and nature. This is the principle behind how Weleda functions in developing its cosmetics, dietetic products and homeopathic medicines. To guarantee safe, natural and organic raw materials, the brand grows its own medicinal plants in its own gardens. The crops are grown according to bio-dynamic methods, with no recourse to chemical fertilizers or phytosanitary products. About 100 plant species are as such harvested in the Weleda laboratory gardens. The remaining 370 plant species used by the group come from all over the world, from the Andes to the confines of Africa. In France, Weleda products are distributed in pharmacies, health and beauty stores and natural-product shops. The just-opened Weleda Paris space – an isle of naturalness in the heart of the city – gives the entire scope of Weleda’s vocation in terms of the art of natural products. A reflection of this space will also brightly shine at the Weleda stand at Natural & Bio Cosmeeting.
www.weleda.fr

Since 1990, Florame, the aromatherapy specialist has offered an exceptional range of 200 essential oils and organic cosmetics lines. Today the Provençal laboratory is launching Bio & Satine, a new range of organic body slimming and firming treat-ments. To discover at Natural & Bio Cosmeeting.

Florame's Bio & Satine is a cosmetics line of four organic body treatments: a scrub for softening and toning the skin, body oil and bath salts for slimming and toning, and bust oil for shapeliness. Developed using 100% natural ingredients, the range draws its properties from original thinning and tensing complexes of organic essential oils, plant active ingredients and natural active ingredients.

Like all Florame products, this new line is Cosmebio-certified and bears the Ecocert label, and is not animal tested. It is part of the laboratory’s commitment to the quality and traceability of its essential oils and to the ecology and fair trade.

This is a permanent commitment found in the involvement of its CEO, Thierry Recouvrot, who in 2001 set up the association Cosmebio, of which he is still an active member. Florame is also involved in developing a solidarity project in Madagascar where 500 hectares allotted by the government have now been cleared for growing the geranium, ravintsara, eucalyptus and cinnamon needed in Florame’s products. With the setting up of a 1500 liter distillery, the aim of this project is to supply 200 jobs in the long run, along with facilities (schools, dispensaries) for the Malagasy and organic essential oils of Florame’s high quality.

When Karine Gambier speaks of her brand of skincare products with donkey’s milk, launched about one year ago at Cosmeeting, it is with the exigency of a consumer and not a manufacturer. With more very high-percentage active ingredients, nourishing but non-oily textures, and mild, pleasant fragrances, Anakae is above all the demand of a woman for the quality of her products, targeted to other women.

Karine Gambier discovered donkey’s milk not when she was little, but during a broadcast in Louxor where she was working as an assistant director for the French television show “Racines et des Ailes.” In the Egyptian skincare ritual, she who had never been able to find a skincare cream suitable for her dry, sensitive skin discovered this beauty potion’s natural, nourishing and calming virtues. Already convinced that for those able to recognize it, the foundations of beauty and wellness are found in nature, she seized onto the array of benefits from this milk – similar to mother’s milk – and decided to launch her own range of products. Anakae was born in collaboration with the Cosnessens laboratory that produces, under her direction, the range’s first five references: Soyeuse day cream, Onctueuse night cream, silky body milk, silky bath milk for the body, and the gentle soap.

Donkey’s milk was important to the world’s greatest leaders from Nefertiti to François I, who used it for intensive treatments, and to Sissi, the Empress of Austria. As Karine Gambier hopes to completely guarantee its quality, she owns her own donkey farm in the heart of the Ardèche and does not modify the milk in any way, such as through lyophilization, prior to using it in the skincare.

Her goal to create highly natural, high quality products has been reached. So she will again be at the Natural & Bio Cosmeeting space to present the new products in the Anakae range: a makeup remover for the face and eyes, an eye-contour anti-wrinkle treatment and a smoothing, plumping mask.

www.anakae.com

For the second year, Cosmeeting is welcoming the largest representation in Europe of natural and organic cosmetics. About 100 exhibitors – pioneering brands with bold new market references and the main European certifying organizations – make up the essential ingredient of the Espace Natural & Bio.

French and international companies such as Burts Bees (USA), Gamarde (France), Erbaviva (USA), Phyt’s (France), Melvita (France), Logona (Germany), Lavera Naturkosmetik (France), Comptoir des Lys (France), Patyka (France), Sicobel Laboratoire (France), Farfalla Essentials (Suisse), Florame (France), LaClarée (France), Lakshmi (Germany) etc… will be present at the event.

Increasingly recognized as an alternative to conventional cosmetics, the natural cosmetics sector is continuing to grow notably as concerns organic cosmetics. Growth, research and development have resulted in the forming of new brands, extended ranges, innovations, and a propensity for high-range organic products. All cosmetics fields are concerned – skincare, fragrance, makeup, hair care, tanning products, etc.

Also present will be the institutional references, European certifying organizations and labels.

Natural & Bio Cosmeeting - 5.6.7 October 2008 – Paris Nord Villepinte